Under the wide-open sky of Santa Barbara County, wineries stretch the imagination. Bluffs roll out before you like the set of a western movie. Lush vineyards are painted in sensuous colors (one vineyard is reminiscent of the French region of Provence). Others have the expansive feel of ranch land – except that in the far distance, under wispy fog, lies the cold Pacific Ocean.
Home to almost 300 wineries and seven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), Santa Barbara County – positioned on California’s mid-coast – offers surprisingly varied landscapes; unpretentious, expert winemakers; and room enough to roam, perhaps with a glass of wine in hand.
The microclimates here create ideal conditions for several types of wine, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. And just when you least expect it, a wonderful bubbly wine pops up. Many operate with organic and biodynamic practices.
Our group of eight took a leisurely two-day lark in late spring to visit several delightful wineries spread over Santa Barbara County, about 2,700 square miles. All are bound by principles of working with the land and its unique climate, to produce superb wine.
Along our winding viticultural journey, we met friendly, knowledgeable vintners who support each other in their unique ventures, under the umbrella of the Santa Barbara Vintners, a nonprofit group that supports winemakers and helps visitors with information, including a variety of wine trails.
There is a world of beauty in Santa Barbara County. As one vintner said, “These grapes grow in beautiful places.”
Melville Winery, operated by the Melville family, manages 130 acres in the Santa Ynez Valley, enriched with what the vintners call good loamy soil, helped by the area’s “cold sunshine” – a unique climate rooted in bright California sun mixed with cold air that wafts off the Pacific Ocean. We sipped a 2024 Pinot Noir, with tones of delicious dense fruit and black tea, while gazing at butterflies floating through lavender and grapevines. melvillewinery.com
At Carhartt Family Wines, Chase Carhartt maintains a vineyard and makes wine on the family property, Rancho Santa Ynez, a venture that his parents began decades ago. (The Carhartt workwear company was begun by another branch of the family tree.) The picturesque Los Olivos tasting room will put you right at home; it is one way to purchase the winery’s direct-to-consumer wine. Carharttfamilywines.com
Native9 delivered a taste of a special Rancho Vinedo Chardonnay, made from 75-year-old vines, and a distinctive 2021 Pinot Noir. Winemaker James Ontiveros is the ninth generation to farm this acreage, which started with a land grant. Native9, a working ranch, has an expansive feel, with an 1862 farmhouse and a dirt road lined with flowering mustard plants. The mountains you see make up the San Rafael Range. ranchosdeontiveros.com
On a bluff 13 miles from the Pacific Ocean sits Presqu’ile Winery, housed in a striking modern building. Here, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes reign, sharing land with black truffles and avocados. A crisp white Aligoté and an estate Chardonnay were among the delicious offerings. presquilewine.com
If you can, stretch your trip and explore Santa Barbara County’s wine connections. At the Hotel Californian, in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone, you’ll find The Society: State & Mason, which offers wine tastings in an elegant setting.
When you’re back on your tour, don’t miss charming downtown Los Alamos, home to the delightful Clementine Carter Wines shop and tasting room. Winemaker Sonja Magdevski collaborates with Robert Rae Ranch in the Sta. Rita Hills, which has custom-planted six acres for her project. Here, Magdevski produces grapes for Grenache and Mourvedre wines, which Magevski makes herself in nearby Lompoc. Despite its tiny size, the town of Los Alamos is considered a must-stop for people who love good food and wine. clementinecarterwines.com
As daylight began to fade over the town’s main road, we headed to Bell’s Restaurant, a bistro with much national acclaim and a benevolent stake in the community. A fine dinner under the stars ended with a toast over an excellent bottle of bubbly from France – a 2021 Tellier ‘Les Massales’ Extra Brut Millesime Champagne. It was the perfect finale to our day-and-a-half tour of some of the Central Coast’s best and brightest wineries. bellsrestaurant.com
Contact wineries for information on tours, tastings, and wine clubs.